Uzbekistan Tour

A bit of sun in the cold autumn ... October 2008

I hope, will forgive me for Francoise Sagan partially used by me in the title of the notes, the title of her novel "A little sun in cold water, but it is somehow spit in my head when I traveled to Uzbekistan. Perhaps because I came to this country after nearly a week-long visit to the Carpathians and Carpathians, where the cold water flowing at me from the Horn of plenty - the heavens are not bought up - and Moscow did not spoiled the sun and heat ... A continuation of the summer Uzbekistan surprised - as if hit on a hot July - and at the same time, the autumn colors and plenty of variety of fruits. Uzbekistan tours with us!

And if it just came at me about the weather - a strange note in the perception of its own residents in Uzbekistan: they seem to think that plus the 26-30 - it is cold, because they were all dressed the way we dress when the temperature is close to zero: if I starve the heat when I was only a thin shirt with short, naturally, sleeves, and completely purged - that local people feel fine sweaters, and jackets on top of another, as if really a special "hardy" and are not clothed on top of a jacket, it is still there, it always was, moreover, as a rule, leather ... I personally was afraid even to look at them: from the contemplation of their kind in such attire, I could then happen at all heatstroke ... Especially hot for some reason it was on my visit to Tashkent. Uzbekistan tours with us! Once you log in to your hotel and the fear of overheating starve (shame did not see the capital of Uzbekistan), I immediately incorporated his air conditioner at 15 degrees, and I am just surprised that he was set to 30, plus my predecessor! .. What are all the same organism in the powerful Uzbeks, just to be envied ... The next day, thank God, the temperature dropped slightly and puff breeze - has become much more pleasant. So the citizens of Uzbekistan solar dressed almost altogether in the winter: wool sweaters, plus the kind (!) Jackets and even boots on the legs of women ... In doing so, I looked at her and did not change clothes and sandals legenkih alien, fell unexpectedly to their country with a really hot planet ...

I will not in strict chronological order to describe the route of my travels, the more pointless to dwell on you see monuments of architecture and history - they, of course, all magnificent, very beautiful, unusual for a European perspective, they are ancient history and, in general, in one word -- impressive! - But remember all the names and historical facts associated with them, etc. - It is simply impossible, it is better to read themselves, if there is interest - travel guides, books on history and architecture of Uzbekistan, etc. In fact, when you talk about the architecture - that in Uzbekistan there is no diversity of styles, types, varieties of beauty in general - as in Russia , Belarus and Ukraine. I saw a great number of mosques, madrasahs, minarets, mausoleums ... - but not excellent ones in the same city, from those in another: they are almost all identical. Uzbekistan tours! Here is a general view of the city as a whole, as they say, is different: Khiva, for example, or Bukhara Samarkand photos do not mix. Generally, Khiva left, perhaps, the strongest impression of my trip. And passed my way a piece of ancient "Silk Road", ie way from Europe to China - Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand with check-in Shahrisabs, and, of course, the capital of Tashkent. I would just stop at any particular time of my travel memories, impressions of the visit.

Khiva, as I have already noted, left the strongest impression. Although there is no architectural monuments such ancient remains, as, for example, in Bukhara. All of them - at the earliest time of creation - is age 15-16. But the general view of the city! This ancient city-fortress of vysochennoy and once impregnable wall! And as if all inside a frozen in time - is not only a city-museum with its mosques, minarets, mausoleums, and a living city. There, people live in houses as if they were carried over from medieval times, if not before: one "wattle and daub" with characteristic sloping roofs and windows of the court (on the street just went blank wall), with wells and other attributes is far from modern civilization ... From bottle-neck and curved streets. In fact, such curves lanes (if anyone was in Evpatoria, it can provide) is found in all cities of my destination, even in Tashkent, in the heart of the city almost (!), and even the donkey as a transport and cargo vehicles. In Bukhara, for instance, I was long and hard for one of these streets to the fortress - and has almost exactly the same place, and from the beginning of your path - as these streets, not only on their own curve, but also intersect with exactly the same ... A donkey, I met a great number everywhere: in all cities, even as we have said in Tashkent, to say nothing of Khiva and Bukhara, on the road from one city to another, - in general, this is the main vehicle, which is how to transport people and goods. What particularly shocked - it is that on the way from Khiva to Bukhara, 500 km ride through the desert - and on the trail, and near where there was no settlement - one sand boundless as the sea - both here on this road are donkey, an impression - quite independently of the existing people who live by themselves ... As they were in the wilderness, what fate has brought these animals so far from the people - it is not clear. I'm in the album with photos taken in Uzbekistan, there is an entire gallery donkey ... Apart from the donkey, on the road able to see a fox cross the road-karaganku and some quite unimaginable birds: they were called, did not know even the driver of the car. Uzbekistan tours with us! And in general good, that something was able to see and even take pictures through the windows of cars, because we (me and another tourist from Japan) run at speeds of at least 120-140 km per hour - I was even more respected your camera for that in the "moving object", it takes a pretty decent views from the window. 500 miles from Khiva to Bukhara through the wilderness, we broke for some 5 hours, but that there were also parts of the whole road, and quite bustard road, and nearly half filled with sand ... In one place the road, my car was flying, even in a literal sense, the "jumping" - the fact that new, just made the end of the road, and then had grazed the asphalt, that is, formed as a porozhek, but the driver did not know about it, and no warning signs were not.

Drivers in Uzbekistan - is a special "Song": I have not seen these anywhere yet. Even in Belarus, where the ideal road vehicles do not drive at a speed of 200 km per hour, while in Uzbekistan, the only way and go, but that there tracks are far from ideal! From Samarkand to Tashkent, we arrive nearly 300 km in 2 hours, because driver is less than 200 km per hour which is rarely done, from Samarkand to Shahrisabs on serpentine mountain (!), we running at a rate of not less than 100, while the narrow road, and it remains the same run different animals: sheep, cows, goats, the same donkey and a dog. At one of these mad dogs rushing suddenly cross the road, and we just did not hit.

Speed 100 on mountain serpentine, apparently, is considered in Uzbekistan is very small, because before the trip the driver explained to me long for my question, how quickly we doedem to Shahrisabsa that drive in not particularly fast, as he drives very cautiously: he has a family and young children! .. Actually, I just like to ride fast, UPOV to fish of God, fate, and experienced drivers. And when from Bukhara to Samarkand, we moved "only" at a speed of 80-100, and it seemed that the car had just cost - even had to express his bewilderment over this. Uzbekistan tours with us! However, this was puzzling, nothing compared to the shock that I experienced at the already mentioned road from Samarkand to Tashkent, where the driver at a speed of 200 km per hour and let the steering wheel with both (!) Hands and the car was no control, and no second or two, but rather a long time: the driver was busy with a very useful and urgent - it nibble at his nails on his hands ... And even more interesting: he pulled out of the "bardachka" package with the green grass and fell asleep the contents of this interesting bag itself in your mouth! So here a way to back up, he vez already at a speed of over 200, but neither he nor the passenger in the front seat belts fastened BW were not, although it is prescribed by law - in decision-STR stopped us, something told the driver on the about, but even he never paid the fine, apparently, had already been paid for in advance ...

I used too, of course, that we in Russia and Ukraine, where I very often - the law and life as a lie in different planes: Act like there is, so only he has not complied with - but at least not so openly defiant do, as in Uzbekistan. Use at least a system of exchange in Uzbekistan. Uzbekistan tours with us! Under exchange currency from the hands - a criminal offense under this heading - the prison is provided. However, currency exchange offices in Tashkent, not even (!), not to mention the other cities. It is possible to exchange only in the banks, but they work only on weekdays and a limited time, so even with interruptions. That is, if you came to the bank is not on Saturday or Sunday, do not hit the break, do not come very early (the earliest banks operate from 9 am), and it is too late (until 19 pm, and Friday - reduced working day) - it is considered that you are very lucky! But if a man came in the weekend, or early in the morning, or after 19 pm the evening - then he changed the money, even if at the railway station (!) Exchanger is working on the same schedule as the banks? But do not despair, all successfully allow using ... Militia! Do not worry - not in the sense that you think ... At gosharchi you no one will send. Police officers always have some banks, a service of protection, but not as we - the private-and public - so that's it, those who intended to monitor compliance with the law, offered to exchange the currency for you - and you, of course, agree, because - but have you have any option? - No! Just as in the anecdote, when the policeman asked why he does not pay any attention to the disorder: "I'm here to oversee - a disorder does not regard me !"... In Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand, the truth, it was much easier than in the capital - there have been as a means of payment not only scrip (and even not so much a bag), and Russian rubles and U.S. dollars and Euros ...

In general, observed that in Uzbekistan "can not" - is often paid, you can. " For example, the many minarets, where I climb, entry was forbidden, but it is also suited to you and which pushes the plate away prohibiting for five thousand (100 russian .rub.). Uzbekistan tours with us! And for those minarets just sometimes dangerous, it was lifted: half a step and continue to successfully dilapidate straight at you under their feet, the lighting is not full of darkness (well at least I always have a flashlight), the upper floor does not have a fence, and if you are rushed, then, in principle, it is possible to reach the ground before the scheduled time ...

Types, however, at the top simply amazing: the entire city, as the palm of your hand - very beautiful!

Or even: there, where they can not be left, very often (if not always) can be right (or vice versa). At the Registan Square in Samarkand on the left require a pass card - and I do not even know that the entrance fee, because I prefer it to go right ... In Bukhara, I would look at existing madrassah inside - but the women there login strictly prohibited. Men not let strangers inside, sat on the left side of the main entrance - I went right, and successfully got into the inner courtyard. There I read a surprising announcement: it was the recruitment of students in the madrassas, and listed the dignity of this institution, including those benefits that are enjoyed by students, such as: library, computer labs, a dining room at discounted prices and a lot of useful and including ... an opportunity to enjoy modern toilet! .. Yes, I thought, for this must-go here to learn, and withstand the competition of 25 people on the scene! Incidentally, the second force Medrese I saw in Tashkent, and the entry inside it all, including women, was totally free ... Again: that one place is strictly "not", then another - yes please ... But in general, something that relates to "not" - I am always guided by our university professors, inveterate traveler and amateur - A.CH. Kozarzhevskogo: "If you want something to see - never be afraid, you have every right to do so, except for certain is it that the law classified government military installations ... Recently, a monk from Pskov-Pechersk monastery said almost the same to the question "Is it possible to pass ..." - "If you feel like to see - be artful and nosy, like a snake !"... With regard to communication in Russian in Uzbekistan, there are no problems there: everything and understand Russian and speak it - even in Khiva, where Russian tourists - a very rare visitant. So rare that no one in Russian for tourists and will not: only in English or "madam", and children welcome: "Hellou."

Pretty soon me these treatment "ma'am" and "hellou" fairly tired, and then the kids, I said: "Speak correctly - not hellou," and "hello", and madam, which sells souvenirs: "I am not a" madam "- I rather, "comrade", "- she laugh to tears, and then, when found out that I am from Russia, from Moscow, took me to hug and all my crying:" It's from Russia! Russian. "Sadly, of course, that in Khiva absolutely no Russian tourists - and I think that this is the most memorable city, the most peculiar. But tourists from abroad are fully complete: too many Japanese and Koreans have the Americans, many Europeans - from Italy, Germany, France and Switzerland particularly. I could never even imagine to imagine that I'll have to remember to learn at school and at the University of the English language to communicate on it ... in Uzbekistan, however, had podnapryach their brains and recall English at least at a basic level (though how many forces had been spent on it once! But there was no practice - and nearly all been forgotten) - that somehow communicate with tourists, living with me in a hotel - we met Every morning at breakfast (breakfast is included in all hotel rooms in payment). It will also sit at one table and all the time to keep silence! Yes, and often approached on the street and approached the English with questions or requests (for example, to photograph them, or suggest a road, etc.) - well more that I understand English quite fairly, especially when the media is not talking that language, and learned of his people. By the way, in Bukhara, I met my partner: Go to one of the shops where make gifts in the smithy - I suddenly asked, and - surprisingly - once said, in Russian, - people working there: "Who are you in the specialty?" - Answer: "Russian Philology language and literature. Uzbekistan tours with us!" It turned out that him, too, "She is a philologist, teacher of Russian language, as a foreign language - that is Russian for Uzbeks. But the extra work involved - of necessity, as well as teachers' salaries $ 50 a month. This is despite the fact that prices for products in Uzbekistan is not Moscow's less ... I will not say he has become that I have a long long time ... not a teacher in Bukhara, I met two Muscovites, too, as I came alone, and another whole group of Russian tourists (also from Moscow) who used the services of travel agencies. And I can once again rejoice for ourselves, that this time did not change their principles - to go anywhere alone - because of the stories of tourists from this group, they plainly do not manage to see: Samarkand, they slip gallop, not seen, and a third of what I saw, I do not know whether they went to Shahrisabs but barbecues, picnics were they in full, because of what they missed in Bukhara, came only in the evening, when it started to darken (as in Uzbekistan, from dusk to darkness kromeshnoy are only some minutes - as we in the south) - at that time I had photographed last species passing the sun (sun and the truth of its charming beauty).

I asked a local residents why they were so happy that I am from Russia, - I replied: "Because you have to, our! Well, of course, that comes to us with a lot of foreigners from abroad - but they are not ours." Touching of course!

Generally, people in Uzbekistan are very good, friendly and responsive. Once it was only an exception: in Shahrisabs my question guy said (and in Russian!) That the Russian language, he does not know can not understand and does not speak in Russian. Next was the dialogue: - Yes, you understand and speak in Russian better than me! - No. - Okay, but if I were in Russian suggested to you a thousand dollars - you could understand? - Yes, I realized it would be ... - Oh, because you and I do not propose - that you are bad, and mercantile people!

At the end of our fellowship. But it was only one such case.

But many others were more: when people and offered their assistance, and went forward, and wished me many good and kind - that, perhaps, their positive energy, the aura or something, like prayer, helped me in ways - and no though how many would be significant difficulties in the way I have encountered, it was like something very well ...

This is at least one remembered me an example of goodness: On the last day of my stay in Samarkand I had to have necessarily to visit the mausoleum of St. Daniel. Hodge-Daniyar - this Koranic and biblical prophet, whose remains were brought here Amir Temur, a saint revered as the Orthodox, and Jews, and Muslims. Our patriarch was not so long ago here at the tomb of Daniel, this hallowed place, and a tree nearby, which has withered away, but surprisingly revived after the consecration. And another miracle - this is what Daniel, and after his death continues to grow, his tomb is constantly extended and now is 3-4 times longer than normal. And yet there is a sacred source of healing water. All this I told the owner of the hotel "Emir", where I lived in Samarkand advising necessarily go to the mausoleum of Daniel. I went there after a visit to Shahrisabs already closer to the evening and already dark by 6 o'clock in the evening, and, as I have pointed out, darken rapidly. I managed to visit the mausoleum of darkness. Keeper of the mausoleum seems I waited: he said that in general it has had to withdraw. I do not know really what I liked so he can order that from Russia, may be something else - but he nadaval me of St. Daniel the many allegedly charged his energy objects - coins, etc., and even a twig of the regenerated tree - though a pity, of course - but I just did not have to react and prevent this act of vandalism in relation to a living tree! Uzbekistan tours with us!

And most importantly - so good I wanted to on the road! .. Thanks to him!

And it wonders whether the power of the Holy Daniel, or the caretaker of the mausoleum of kindness, or from both at once - almost immediately began to show. In kromeshnoy the dark on unlit road, where at this time there is no soul - right hilly wasteland called Ancient Afrasiab, and left the cemetery - I'm going back, and despite the fact that I am far from timid dozen - zhutkovato general something ... But what to do, by the grave of St. Daniel the same, it still does not stay ... Go one and a half kilometer or two, under normal circumstances - nothing, but then ... And now - a miracle - a passing "Rafik", stops in front of me and zhdet.Podhozhu. The driver opens the door, bring offers. I agree. Has asked me what I am alone in this darkness, the desert road, where, as he put it "even guys go at a time, afraid of" - prus: - Not scared? - No, nothing. Why be afraid of something? - The owner of my hotel said that crime is at zero, all calm, and afraid of nothing ... - Well, all can be, and if the attack who? - And who attack it? You yourself just said that there are even afraid to go guys ...

Laughs. Drop to the center, and even did not take any money.

And I am forever grateful to him: we should also, he was not indifferent, I came alive or not. She said that the century will remember ... And in general I will not even remember many architectural monuments, magnificent views of Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand, very green, with amazing gardens and fountains of the city of flowers Tashkent - but the atmosphere of goodwill of people in Uzbekistan ... Even hotels in Uzbekistan is not such as we are accustomed to: it is not a hotel, a house where you'll find where your happy arrival. They are private, small and very cozy. The owner of the hotel - it is the master of the house, and all who dwell in the house - the members of his extended family. At breakfast, all gathered around the table, covered in the yard on the street (when it becomes cold - in the large living room). Breakfasts, such that, for me, for example, this would be more than enough for the whole day and another the next. And there so many delicious: jam and mix of local fruits, including and very like me arbuznoe with the crust, and very fresh fruit and all that, as the saying goes "soul wishes! Uzbekistan tours with us! And to practice the English you can (and should) - it is a pity that it has not been with me my son - he was better than I now know the language, and could easily maintain a conversation, especially since he is a very sociable guy, and found a common language, in any case!

Padrone "Emir" in Samarkand, a special THANK YOU! And a pleasant good meet me at his house - as if, as he said, "we have long been familiar" (and I have also had the feeling, so I was even glad that the hotel "Timur" to me, no one opened, and then suddenly they would be the place for the duration of my stay - in general: that not the case, then all the better!), and tips for where to go and what to see in Samarkand (again: if it were not for his advice I most likely would not go at night looking to the mausoleum of Daniel, so - not yet received two such good people that will remain vivid and pleasant memories for the rest of his life ...); and his wishes all the best to me at parting (Not saying that the wishes materializing. In any case, his kind words and wishes of good luck in the future journey, perhaps, and have helped me in Tashkent: I have an inexpensive and very good the hotel was almost immediately, but it was very hot and die can be would be longer hikes in the search ... and managed to see everything - and in Tashkent have that look! And the city itself, I liked: it it's not a lot of architectural monuments left (although they are still there, and quite a important and revered) - but many others: the beautiful and pleasant town, city parks and fountains, the city, where the combination of modernity and antiquity, the city where there are high-and one-wattle and daub, broad leaflets and uzenkie curves of streets, subways and beautiful burro as a cargo / passenger transport, where all the streets in green (in autumn is a whole range of outdoor paint, all colors), where you can see the mosque through the twigs ripening persimmon, and a jet fountain - through stunning beauty of flowers, where the sun sets directly in the fountains resulting jets of water overflows some unusual shades of yellow and orange flowers ... How many wonderful young people - the same as the future of this beautiful sunny country called Uzbekistan! Countries where forever remain a part of my soul and my heart And even the delay of my flight Moscow no longer seems so negative - maybe that Uzbekistan does not want me to let go ... Or maybe even one day, if God willing ...